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Hemant Mathur & Surbhi Sahni’s Saar Indian Bistro
Meet Me at Saar Indian Bistro!
The noted husband and wife team of Chefs Hemant Mathur and Surbhi Sahni has probably birthed more new restaurants than anyone else! Their latest creation Saar Indian Bistro is the newest in the line of eateries which have included Tulsi, Chote Nawab, Chola, Malai Marke, Haldi and Sahib. This one has moved more uptown from the Curry Hill area of Little India. It is in the theater district (241 West 51st street) so is a real spicy alternative for diners looking for more drama on their platters (the only other Indian restaurant in the theater district is Utsav, a long time staple of the area.) Hemant’s winning combination includes many innovative small plates which seem to be what diners want nowadays for a casual meal, more than the whole nine yards of a full desi meal. The bar is a sleek combination of black and brass accents. The ambiance is understated with pink floral wallpapering and black leather seating – indeed, the décor does not give away any clues to what the food would be, unless you consider the deep Indian pink of the restroom to be a giveaway! The food is definitely something to write home about, and you may not have tasted many of the dishes before. We had the cauliflower latkes accompanied by cranberry chutney – I would have liked them to have more heft but they were succulent with ginger flavoring and a comfortingly home-made taste. The Kerala Egg Puff was also something new on Indian tables in New York and of course spicy chaat is always a treat, especially with surprise ingredients added in, such as Shakarkandi Chaat which is Charcoal smoked Japanese sweet potato with cilantro chutney and roasted cumin.The vegetarian choices were fewer in this edited menu but the Kashmiri Gucchi Truffle risotto was a real winner with its earthy richness and basmati grains – it’s comfort food elevated to luxury food.
Just like many diners I am also trying to avoid bread but who can resist a huge platter of succulent laccha and methi parathas?
Hungrier? There are medium plates serving Basil Paneer, Lasooni Kebabs, and Murg Kesar. Large plates include Pindi chole & Amritsari Aloo Kulcha as well as Kerala Coconut Plantain curry, spicy lentil soup, rice, pappadam and yes, even Delhi ka Butter Chicken and Murg Kesar Kebab. The ample menu travels all over the map of India, finding little known pleasures from different regions including Kosho Mangsho & Luchi slow stewed Bengali goat curry; Salli Boti which is a Parsi lamb stew; Vazzaka Thoran & Sambhar – – Kerala coconut plantain curry, served with spicy lentil soup, rice, and pappadam.
Desserts are Surbhi’s forte and the ones on the menu include such unusual flavors as Cashew Kulfi, Indian cashew ice cream served with tagmo chili chocolate crackle cookies, and Fig Firni – Rice custard, orange & garam masala poached figs. There’s also unniyappam – sourdough banana fritters with a guava-mango-curry leaf dipping sauce.
As Surbhi says, at Saar Indian Bistro they cook as they themselves eat every day, making authentic home food, using fresh ingredients and innovative ideas, adding in global borrowed spices and tastes from other cultures – the way modern Indians eat at home today. Indian food is much more intricate than Chicken Tikka Masala, and this newest Indian outpost in the Times Square area proves it.